A Great Blog

The rest of the trip

2007-09-25T16:35:00.000-07:00

After the time in Wales we went south to Bournemouth on the coast where Warren's daughter Jen lives. We did quite a lot while there including lunch at the Royal Oak, a great pub that is truly right on the water at Langston Harbour. We met one of Warren's former parishioners. She was one of those people who I immediately felt as if I'd known for a long time. It was a really lovely relaxing afternoon. We parked at St Thomas A Becket church and walked along the harbor to get to the pub and when we got back the church was open and we went in. It is where Mary Tudor attended church when she was a child living with her aunt there.

We visited both of Warren's parishes in that area and it was interesting to see the contrast one being on a council estate and one being very much commuter London. We also went to Chichester and Winchester Cathedrals...Chichester is rather small as cathedrals go and Winchester is the Longest cathedral in the world I think but maybe just in England...another study in opposites. Chichester had the warmest feel of all the cathedrals and really of all the churches we visited. In Winchester there was a plaque honoring Samuel Wesley who was organist there. Further evidence that the Wesley's never stopped being Anglicans.

In Winchester we saw the Round Table of King Arthur and his knights. Quite impressive though I preferred the queens garden outside the great hall. A very peaceful and contemplative place in the midst of a very busy city. We ate Cornish Pasties on the steps of the cross. I like Pasties and got a recipe book in hopes of learning to make them. Of course I thought of Qwilleran, of the Cat Who mysteries, as I think Pasties featured in those books.

One of the most amazing places we visited was the Roman Palace at Fishbourne. There are some nearly intact mosaic floors from the 1st century...that's right only 3 digits in the dates. The museum had many interesting artifacts and the displays and descriptions of life in the palace made it possible to easily stand on the walkways above the floors and imagine the centurions and ladies of the palace and others dining or going about their daily lives. The garden there was another magnificent one. Espaliered fruit trees, severely square box hedges, and a potting shed where the Roman gardener gave a lecture on what was growing well and what wasn't in the English climate. They also had a really great shop...did a little souvenir purchasing before heading back to Jen's.

When we got back to Coventry the big focus was Michelle's Wedding...but that's for another post.

Pony Trekking and More

2007-08-19T12:34:00.000-07:00

This is my first chance to blog since getting back from Wales on Friday. The time there was yet another incredible experience. We were sleeping in a "bunk Barn" that was atually on the grounds of Llanthony Abbey and was really a refurbished barn with the current stable yard just behind the wall of the bunk room. We could hear them bring the horses in for grooming and saddling in the morning. The accomodations were rustic in the way Lost River but the showers were much nicer and cleaner and the kitchen much better appointed. There were beds for 19 people so all 8 of us had lower bunks...for wich I was very thankful after riding nearly 7 hrs. I was a bit stiff but far less miserable than I'd feared I might be.

The riding was really great. We were right up on the top of the Brecon Beacons which were covered with heather and crawling with Welsh Sheep. There were places a bit lower down where the trail went through ferns that were taller than we were on horseback. Felt very ancient and mysterious, easy to see faeries and imagine scenes from movies like The Ring series and Braveheart.

We arrived Wed evening and got settled then walked through the fields where sheep were grazing and found the ponies high pasture where they'd been let out for the night. We also explored the abbey and discovered the Half Moon (local pub) just over a stile in the lower field of the farm. We also spotted a phone booth and some Caravan Parks/campgrounds.

Early Thursday before our ride Nia and I took a walk and crossed a very narrow bridge and found a footpath that led to a lovely valley where there were 2 welsh ponies with a very young foal. Nia was so patient and walked slowly over to them and the mother let her pet her but she wisely decided not to try and touch the foal though she was tempted.

It was very hard to leave Friday morning. Nia and I were the last away from the Stable Yard where Becca our guide, let Nia groom "her pony"...reminded me of my days with the Maggie

Shrewsbury/Stratford-Upon-Avon

2007-08-15T02:54:00.000-07:00

On Monday, 13 Aug Warren and I went to Shrewsbury where we saw the Abby that was the setting for the Brother Cadfael mysteries. There really was an Abbott Herbert and the relics of St. Winifred were there. Both featured greatly in the stories.There was a slightly unkempt herb garden that included many of the herbs referenced in the books as well.

We then followed 2 of the 4 Brother Cadfael trails one around the Abby grounds and one around the town. We saw both the English bridge and the Welsh bridge. There's an area that is a lovely garden called the "Dingle" ... made me think of Cumberland's Dingle. I sent mom a postcard of it. Did a lot of souvenir shopping in Charity shops and other shops while there. The town was really lovely and we visited St Mary's church which is no longer used as a parish church but is consecrated and use for some special celebrations. The windows there were 15th century stained glass and some even earlier. They were absolutely amazing. They seemed much warmer and somehow in all their grandeur were less imposing than the Victorian windows we'd seen elsewhere.
We detoured into the country side a bit on the return trip and had dinner at a very nice pub near the Wrekin which is a very impressive rock formation. The country side is much different so close to Wales. More hilly and less pastoral in feel than on our trip to Oxford.We ate beef and mushroom pie, new potatoes, carrots and peas. All very delicious and fresh!

Yesterday we donned our Kagools and set off in the rain for Stratford-Upon-Avon. We checked in at our Bed and Breakfast and walked via the "Old Tramway" a tree lined walkway into town. It had stopped raining by the time we got there but still looked threatening so the first thing we did was take a Canal boat tour past the Royal Shakespeare Company Theatres and Trinity Church where Shakespeare is buried. The church is surrounded by scaffolding as they are in the midst of some major restorations. So was the RSC. We then toured the church and walked all around town. I had my first Fish and Chips for lunch. It was quite good and such generous serving that I feared not being hungry for dinner. We did a bit more souvenir shopping and went into some very interesting shops...one all organic, hand made soaps and such that was quite unlike anything I'd ever seen. Didn't buy anything there though.

After I took a ride on a very beautiful and big Carousel on a horse named Victoria, we headed back to the B&B and changed and had dinner at the Old Tramway pub. It was largely a local place and we enjoyed that atmosphere very much. We ordered salads since lunch had been so filling, they came in bowls nearly as big as Mom's Bennington Pottery bowl...we both left a bit of lettuce but managed the "good stuff". Mine was olives, feta cheese, multi-coloured green peppers, bits of red onion and cucumber and cherry tomatoes on lovely mixed greens. Warren's was chicken and bacon instead of olives and feta.

Then we walked in to the Swan Theatre where we saw a most interesting play, Penelopiad, telling Penelope's and her maids' side of the story. This one had an all female cast and it was very well done. Afterwards we went to a pub Dom and Michelle like called the Dirty Duck. It is frequented by the theatre crowd and nearly all of the actresses form our play came in. It was fun to see them as "real people."

We enjoyed the breakfast very much, I had omelet and toast and juice and coffee. There was a lovely view of the garden where a rabbit was providing the entertainment.

Now we're back at Michelle's and I've packed my bag for Wales. We hope to leave within the hour so I'd best end this and help with preparations. Nia and I are both very excited. We're going to play back seat games on the Motorway but when we get off onto local roads she's going to let me gawk at the scenery like a proper tourist.

Rollright Stones and Oxford

2007-08-12T12:19:00.000-07:00

Today was another great day of seeing new yet old things and places. The forecast was iffy as to rain in the afternoon so we deferred the gardens and farm until another day. Warren, Nia and I set out for the Rollright Stones. They're south of here and it was a really beautiful drive.

We detoured slightly and drove through a real Cotswold type Village. It's interesting how the houses and things in and around Coventry are of different stone than these were. It was wonderful to see roses growing up cottages and the lovely gardens and narrow streets...very much what I've pictured when reading my English Village mysteries and Rosamond Pilchard etc. It is interesting to see the thatched roofs and think of the care needed to maintain them. Warren explained that many of the houses are listed so if you have a thatched roof you must always keep it thatched. Even though you very likely can't get insurance because of it.

The Roll Right stones are thought to date back to Druid times. There is a fairly large stone circle that felt very sacred and spiritual. There were two men there going round and round them counting and getting very frustrated because they never got the same number. Warren explained that there's a legend that the stones in the circle can't be counted...It seems these guys wanted to prove they could. Then there's an area with 3 large stones called the Whispering Knights. This was used as a burial area, but there's also a legend that says three knights were plotting against their king and a witch turned them to stone. Then there's one very large stone that is known as the King Stone which was thought to also be used by Druids. The views from this area were absolutely stunning. There were cows and a large white horse grazing and Nia called the horse over and gave it a nice pat on the nose before we left.

The weather was still looking a bit iffy so we headed for Oxford. We passed Blenheim Palace and I thought of Lonnie because Falconry is big there. Due to time constraints we didn't stop. In oxford we were able to tour the gardens and commons of St John's college. Very beautiful and I took pictures of some frightening looking gargoyles and some lovely flowers and shrubs. Unfortunately didn't see anyone strolling about in academic gowns but did see two young men from Boston obviously on a college planning tour...quite a coincidence I thought. On the way back to the car park we saw the Randolph Hotel. I felt liked I'd stepped into a Poirot or and Inspector Morse mystery. We were able to peek into the windows of the club room which was just as I recall from PBS.

Then on the way home we went through Banbury and saw Banbury Cross as made famous by the nursery rhyme. The cross had these adorable stick horses with heads of flowers and vines sticking up from the plantings around it. There's also a statue of a lady on a horse near the cross. The rain never materialized so we never had to don our Wellies and Kagools.

When we arrived home Michelle and Dom had prepared a real Sunday meal of roast beef, new potatoes, broccoli, carrots and Yorkshire pudding with Lemon Meringue pie for dessert. After we finish putting stickers on little galvanized pails for the wedding favours we're off to bed. All the walking is insuring very good rest at night. Another day of walking is in order tomorrow I expect since it sounds like good weather again. As Mary Poppins would say it's stacking up to be a 'practically perfect' holiday.

Kenilworth Castle

2007-08-11T12:29:00.000-07:00

Today we toured the ruins of Kenilworth Castle. It was built of red sandstone beginning in the 1120s with Geoffrey de Clinton, royal chamberlain. Later it was granted by Elizabeth I to Rovert Dudley, who added a whole section for her visit in 1575.

We started off with coffee in the stable yard which is now an exhibit area and cafe. It was amazing as we walked through the various areas of the castle how even though in ruin it comes to life. One can hear the thundering hooves and clash of lance on armour as you stand on the tilting ground. The kitchen feels as though the hustle and bustle of preparing for a feast in the great hall is underway.In the great hall it is easy to imagine the Dauphin's gift of tennis balls to Henry V and Henry's decision to abandon diplomacy and invade France.

Though it is sad that people hasten the erosion by chisling graffiti into the stones it is interesting to see grafiti from 1806 nearly side by side with that from 2007.

Nia and I went to the highest area near the great hall and the view was spectacular. We also went into an opening in a hedge surrounding the Privy Garden. It was at least 6 feet deep so it was more like entering a tunnel than a break in a hedge.

We had lunch in McDonalds as we'd stayed rather late at the castle and needed to get home without spoiling our dinner. McDonalds was a bit different but also familiar. I'm glad we didn't spoil our dinner. It was lamb pie(made with Welsh lamb), English new potatoes and lovely fresh carrots from the local farmers market.

I hope all the walking at Kenilworth counters the good food Michelle is providing. After a couple games of Candyland we're going for early bed as tomorrow will either be a garden tour or a visit to a working farm.

10 August 2007

2007-08-10T07:55:00.000-07:00

Time to update everyone on the past few days. Our flights over were on Aer Lingus...fun to be on planes with great green shamrocks on the wings and tail...the one from Dublin to Birmingham was named St Brendan. He is thought to have sailed to America long before Columbus. We actually arrive in both Dublin and Birmingham early. No issues in immigration or customs and my passport now has an Irish Stamp in it.

Nia and Michelle met us and we were at 13 Lavender Lane (love the name) for breakfast of proper English bread, English Butter, Heather Honey-which has a very distinctive flavor- and all sorts of jams. Then a short rest and we went to a really nice pub with a garden full of play equipment including slides, an inflated jumping house, and a great wooden play structure with rope ladders etc. It seems that the pub atmosphere is very community, family oriented...which is a bit different from bars in the US.

We had a lovely dinner, Michelle is quite a good cook, and then a very early bed to catch up and get on a proper schedule (7:45UK time).

Today, 10 Aug, we got up and just after breakfast and getting Nia off to her day camp Michelle, Dom, Nathan, Warren and I went into Coventry where we visited a church built in the 1400s, Coventry Cathedral, which is really a monument to peace and reconciliation wonderfully incorporating the ruins of the old cathedral with the new one. The old Cathedral was bombed in WWII. Since Monday was Peace Day there were paper cranes and other items and we saw the priest processing in for the weekly Litany of Reconciliation held at noon every Friday in the old cathedral ruins.

We also saw a statue of Lady Godiva on her horse in all her glory. She rode right into the Council House here. Michelle assures us she doesn't plan a reenactment as her processional.

For lunch we went to a Pub in an old mill just outside town. We sat outside overlooking the river and watching the dragonflies dance. The plantings spilling from pots and window boxes and overhanging from the roof were really beautiful. There are so many lovely flowers everywhere. There are boxes hanging from the railings of the barriers in the center of the roads...which reminds me that it is a bit disconcerting with cars travelling on the opposite side. I am finding it helps to just think about the fact that the driver is always beside the barriers or center of the road which is no different than Americans do it. I'm quite glad to just be the passenger though.

It is difficult and this is long enough but I'd be remiss not to mention how strongly I feel the difference between a land that has been inhabited for such a very long time and the relative newness of the US. I will ponder this and perhaps explain it better in a future post.

Trip to England 2007

2007-07-31T19:12:00.000-07:00

This blog will allow me to keep everyone up to date on my travels and other noteworthy events. You can post comments here or use the "contact me" link at the bottom of the web pages to email me. We will be at Michelle's in Coventry most of the time. On Aug. 15-17 I'll be pony trekking near Llanthony in Mid-Wales. Check out this link for more on that http://www.llanthony.co.uk/ I'm not yet sure what days we'll be at Jen's. I will post any changes in plans to the blog as we go. It's exciting to be getting ready for this grand adventure.